日本科学家证实：锌能对抗皮肤老化
2012-01-31 16:43阅读：
日本科学家证实，吡咯烷酮羧酸锌不仅能从内在抗皮肤老化，还能通过调节真皮胶原蛋白的合成和分解的平衡抗皮肤表皮老化。
长期以来，吡咯烷酮羧酸锌被用在化妆品中起到收敛和抗菌的作用，锌还能从内在和外在防止紫外线对角化细胞和成纤维细胞的损害。
尽管有证据表明锌化合物能对抗紫外线对皮肤的损伤，但一直没有直接的数据证实它能抑制紫外线诱导的基质金属蛋白酶-1(MMP-1)的表达或加强真皮胶原蛋白的合成。
现在找到直接数据
因此这项发表在《国际化妆品科学期刊》上的研究，科学家们分析了锌对人体真皮成纤维细胞的胶原蛋白合成和降解的作用，得到了直接数据。
研究人员采用了吡咯烷酮羧酸锌这种水溶性的化妆品常用配料做了功能试验。
研究者说“我们发现，吡咯烷酮羧酸锌能抑制这些细胞中UVA诱导的激活蛋白(AP-1)，以及减少基质金属蛋白酶-1的合成，这些酶是参与表皮细胞胶原蛋白的降解。”
“通过体外培养人体真皮成纤维细胞，我们证实吡咯烷酮羧酸锌能阻止紫外线诱导的基质金属蛋白酶-1(MMP-1)的合成，从而抑制基质金属蛋白酶-1(AP-1)活性。”研究者指出。
迎头对抗皮肤老化
此外，研究还显示吡咯烷酮羧酸锌还能加强真皮成纤维细胞的I型胶原蛋白合成，也就是说不仅能阻止表皮老化，还能从内在改变皮肤萎缩。
由于随着时间流逝，暴露在外的皮
肤经过紫外线长期照射，真皮的胶原基质减少，导致皮肤表皮老化，进而出现皮肤衰老的特征。
基于以上的这些研究，科学家证实吡咯烷酮羧酸锌可作为抗皮肤衰老的化妆品原料。
Related topics: Anti-ageing,
Formulation & Science, Skin Care
Scientists in Japan have shown that zinc salt of
l-pyrrolidone carboxylate (zinc PCA) is a promising topical agent
not only for prevention of intrinsic skin ageing but also for that
of photo ageing by controlling the balance between the synthesis
and degradation of the dermal collagen.
Zinc PCA has long been used as a cosmetic ingredient because of its
astringent and anti-microbial properties, and zinc itself exerts
protective effects on UV damage in keratinocytes and fibroblasts in
vitro and in vivo.
Despite evidence suggesting the protective role of zinc compounds
against UV-induced skin damage, there are no direct data for either
its suppression of UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1)
expression or its enhancement of dermal collagen production.
Time to find direct data
Therefore, in this study, published in the International Journal of
Cosmetic Science, the scientists investigated the effects of zinc
on collagen degradation and production in normal human dermal
fibroblasts (NHDFs) in order to gather direct data on the
subject.
The researchers investigated these effects by employing zinc salts
of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid; a water-soluble, organic zinc salt
used as a cosmetic ingredient.
“We found that Zinc PCA suppressed UVA-induced activation of
activator protein-1 (AP-1) and reduced matrix metalloproteinase-1
production in these cells, which is thought to be involved in
collagen degradation in photoaged skin,” said the
researchers.
“By using cultured NHDFs, we demonstrated that Zinc PCA prevents
the UV-induced MMP-1 production invitro by suppressing the
activation of activator protein-1 (AP-1),” noted the
research.
Combating skin ageing head on
Furthermore, the study found that Zinc PCA was also able to enhance
type I collagen synthesis in NHDFs, which suggests its promising
effect against not only photo-aged skin but also for the simple
atrophic change of intrinsic skin ageing.
Reduced collagen matrix in the dermis constitutes one of the
characteristic features of chronologically aged skin, which is
further enhanced on the sun-exposed portions of the body by chronic
UV irradiation. This induces the unique changes associated with
skin photo ageing.
It is based on these in vitro findings, that the scientists
consider Zinc PCA to be a promising candidate for an anti-skin
ageing agent.
The research was supported by specialty chemicals manufacturer
Ajinomoto.
Source:
http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Formulation-Science/Scientists-showcase-skin-and-photo-ageing-benefits-of-zinc-as-cosmetics-agent
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