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花开双桥 雾锁长坪

2014-10-31 21:14阅读：

http://blog.sina.cn/dpool/blog/u/2083031977

花开双桥 雾锁长坪
——四姑娘山初夏纪行
Gesang (wild) Flowers Blooming in Double Bridge Gully，
Rain and Fog shrouding in Long Terrace Gully
——A Travel Log to Mountain Siguniang in Early Summer

川西多绝世美景，但不像九寨沟、峨眉山和乐山大佛那样闻名遐迩，其主要原因是养在深闺人未识或识者甚少。这里高原风光秀丽、山水迷人多姿，民族风情浓郁，汇聚原始森林之神韵，雪山、草甸、湿地、牛羊，无不使人震撼；摄影爱好者、户外运动者的天堂、大熊猫栖息地等等名号都给人以无限遐想。
其中四姑娘山就是一个例子。我一直在琢磨如果一生只能去一次、什么季节去最好：是领略初夏花丛冰川交相辉映的壮观景象、还是看金秋赤桦与红枫竞相争艳的美丽画卷？6月中旬逮着一个机会: 给学生上完一周的课、提前准备好了下一周的内容，中间有四天左右的间隔，在从幼儿园到大学的同学圈里好一阵吆五喝六，总算约到了两个高中同学，拼上往返于小金县日隆镇与成都之间跑旅游运输的私营车主李师的安驰和杨师的丰田越野车，终于成行。沿途从映秀到卧龙耿达乡段大概有20多公里的路段，雨
季塌方、飞石是常态，路况仿佛依然停留在2008.5.12的时光里，颠簸摇摆超乎想象，有那么一会儿，我感觉一不小心自己就可能在那儿成为永恒。
四姑娘山位于邛崃山脉中段，川西高原与四川盆地西部盆周山区的交接带上，隶属阿坝藏族羌族自治州小金县，东距成都 220公里，景区总面积为2000平方公里。

The Four Maidens Mountain (Mountain Siguniang) is situated in the middle of the Qionglai Moutain Range in the buffer zone between the West Sichuan Plateau and the mountainous area on the rim of Sichuan Basin, where Xiaojin County and Wenchuan County of Aba Tibetan and Qiang Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan Province meet. The whole scenic area covers 2,000 square kilometers.

四姑娘山景区的第一站——巴郎山。巴郎山海拔5040米，矗立在阿坝州的汶川、小金和雅安地区的宝兴县三县交界处，绵亘八九十里。此山巍峨雄伟，高人云天，峭壁峻岩，奇险难行。民间流传的说法是:'走拢巴郎山，性命交给天; 走到万人坟，死了又还魂。'可见其险峻程度。巴郎山景色十分幽美，云海、杜鹃、典型的植物垂直带谱景观，在翻山途中目不暇接，惊叹不已。
巴郎山的云层茫茫、云雾缭绕，山林飘渺，使人如置身云霄。巴朗山的云海有三奇。
第一奇是无风云涌动。深谷幽壑之中，茫茫白云蒸腾翻滚，波澜壮阔;
第二奇是有风云过山。有时看不到白云，眼前大雾弥漫，将你包裹着、簇拥着，轻柔的、如雾的云拂过你的脸，一股清凉的寒意中，似乎听得见云雾流走的声音，风声呼啸，飞云迅疾，再大的山也阻挡不住，向你铨释出一条以柔克刚的道理；
第三奇是云海幻境。有时会在山间现出一群楼房，一片湖泊，一群怪兽，千姿百态，蔚为壮观。

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
巴朗山的猫鼻梁，是遥看四姑娘山全貌的最佳位置之一。当然也是以四姑娘山为背景的摄影最佳位置。四姑娘山白玉般的容颜，银光闪烁，亭亭玉立如一位少女，她的脸庞虽然被风雪侵蚀长久，看上去略显憔悴，但俊秀恬静的仪表，秀美端庄的体态，风采依旧。时而有一缕白云象洁白的哈达绕在腰间，云动似山移，四姑娘像一个翩翩起舞的藏家少女，柔美中不乏阳刚之气。她海拔 6250米，终年积雪，直指蓝天，气势非凡，仅次于7,556米的蜀山之王贡嘎山，因此得名“蜀山之后”，同时还被称之为'东方的阿尔卑斯'。与四姑娘相邻，相对矮些的山就是她的三个姐姐。

The Four Maidens Mountain is typical of the landform of high mountains and deep valleys. With the precipitous peaks rising high up into the sky and perennially capped with snow, it is well known for its grandeur and loftiness. In fact, the Four Maidens Mountain is comprised of four peaks standing side by side like four girls. The peak of the Four Sister, with a summit elevation of 6,250 meters above sea level, is the highest of the Qionglai Mountain Range. Of all the mountains in Sichuan, it ranks second only to Mt. Gongga, which is 7,556 meters above sea level and being called the “King of Sichuan’s Mountain”, hence the Four Maidens Mountain’s reputation as the “Queen of Sichuan’s Mountains” and also the “Oriental Alps”.
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
景区由四姑山、巴朗山和双桥沟、长坪沟、海子沟组成。景区内雪峰耸峙，风光旖旎，山体陡峭，冰川横陈，空气十分清新。自然生态保护良好，植被茂密，生物种类繁多，是一处景致奇特，生态原始，别具情韵的风景区。景区内的嘉绒藏族住着石块砌成的碉楼，室内安置着锅庄，信仰藏传佛教，农舍村寨的建筑具有鲜明的山地生活特征。

The scenic spot can be divided into three part- Shuangqiao (Double Bridge) Gully, Changping (Long terrace) Gully and HaiZi (Lake) Gully. The Four Maidens Mountain is a magnificent spectacle of nature, with snowy mountains, grotesque cliffs and gnarled trees, tumbling waterfalls, sparkling springs, luscious grasslands, and meandering streams, which merge magically into a beautiful, mystical picture. In a mild and moist climate, with wild flowers studding the meadows, the valley is rich in limpid streams. Dazzling glaciers span the mountainsides, and the cliff studded mountain summits are covered with snow all the year round. Because of the distinctive climate and vast differences in elevation, the Four Maidens Mountain abounds with animals and plants, which are distributed vertically according to their geographic location. In summer, mirroring clusters of flowers, the glaciers gleam brilliantly with a silver luster and present a spectacular view.

这次，我们先在双桥沟游玩。正值初夏时节，各色花卉装簇其间，香飘数里，漫步于此，让人恍若置身仙境。
With its snowy peaks, pastures, meadows, forests, and its 37 interlaced ravines and brooks, the Double Bridge Gully is the most beautiful valley of the Four Maidens Mt. During the early summer season, colorful flowers arranged in clusters, diffuse fragrance for miles. Walking around there, people find themselves seem to stay in fairyland.

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
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（远山含黛，邀几米阳光永驻）
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
(空灵、毓秀、薄曦、潺潺溪流，是远山的呼唤，是心灵的慰藉)
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
(绝壁万仞，一枝独秀)
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（飘动的经幡，摇曳一丝远思）
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
(可以和毛爷爷比肩的女汉子)
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
(牦牛物语)

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
(白云苍狗，眷恋的是雪山的高远)

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
(东方的阿尔卑斯，你触摸到了吗）

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（山有山的姿态，树有树的风姿，水有水的静好，雾有雾的婉约）

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（悠然自得的不止是小牛犊，还有心情）
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（世间繁芜，唯此景静好）

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（我若盛开，必使天地动容）
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（格桑花编织的地毯，让心瞬间柔软）

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（林花谢了春红太匆匆）
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
第三天，全天游览长坪沟。长坪沟内草深木繁，高峰林立，峭壁嶙峋、山体裸露、周围被茂密的原始森林和翠绿草坡环抱，峡谷悠悠，宁静怡人，溪水潺潺却渺无人烟。还有喇嘛寺、高达数十米的飞瀑，景致绝佳。

The Long terrace Gully, in spring, wild flowers and countless blossoms are in full bloom while in autumn, red birch trees and maple leaves vie with each other for glamour supremacy. In the Gully, verdant pines and cypresses flourish and thrive, springs and splashing waterfalls gurgle as if alive.

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（跳跃在山谷中的幽涧）
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（水墨丹青，一卷山河）

 花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（树欲静而风不止）

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪

花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（马语者，懂你）
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（孤独也是一种心情）
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
（独守流年物语，闲看花开花落）
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪
花开双桥 <wbr>雾锁长坪

由于前一天在长坪沟内雨中徒步40多公里路程，膝盖磨损严重、疲惫不堪、累得贼死，第四天就放弃了海子沟，打道回府了。想象着四姑娘山秋天的景象，不禁有些忧伤。不知何时能再见这一方山山水水了，因为此生有涯，还有更多的山川连一次都未曾谋面，所以脚步不能停留下来，要以“一万年太久，只争朝夕”的精神，去践行自己立下的誓言：“横看大千世界，纵览五洲风云，行万里路”。

Since hiking in the Long Terrace Gully the day before in the rain for more than 40 kilometers , my knees were really hurting me, and I felt terribly fatigued and tired. So on Saturday we gave up the idea of continuing sightseeing in Lake Gully but decided to go home. Imagining how beautiful the Four Maiden Mt. is in golden autumn, I can’t help but sad. I do not know how long it will take to see these mountains and rivers again. Because life is limited, there are so many famous mountains, great rivers and beautiful scenery that I have never seen before, I cannot stop my steps. With the spirit that “one thousand years are too long, seize every minute, seize every day”, I should fulfill my oath: 'see the boundless universe horizontally, view the five continents vertically, travel ten thousand miles '.
（鸣谢同事ZHAOQI为文中图片注释、批注）



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