几种常见衬衫面料及面料名称的来源

2012-12-28 12:59阅读：

http://blog.sina.cn/dpool/blog/u/2392387294

定做衬衫的面料，现在市场上最常见的有以下几种：

1、全棉细薄平布(cottonbatiste)：是用精细高质量的纱线纺织成轻薄的平纹面料。用埃及棉花织成的上等细薄织物被称为瑞士平布。

2、府绸(Poplin)是一种用精细的纬纱和粗厚的经纱构成的织物变化的经纱赋予这种面料各种特色。

3、牛津纺(Oxford)织物由于染色和未染色线混纺，产生粗糙感，用它作成的衬衫，既柔软又耐穿。牛津纺织物有许多不同种类，但与细薄平布和府绸衬衫比较，总显得不够精致和正式。

4、精致牛津纺(Royal Oxford)足比家常的牛津纺更加精致的织物。像传统的牛津纺一样，也是用染色和未染色纱线交织，但是所用的纱线更加精细。这意味着用精致牛津纺制成的衬衫有丝一般滑的手感，触感比常规的牛津纺衬衫更加柔软。

5、海岛棉(Sea lsland)

pan >是原棉中的最优品种，也是最贵的棉。呈乳白色或淡棕色，纤维细而长，具备丝的特征。主要用于织造高支面料，产于美国卡罗来纳与佐治亚等洲沿海岸。它比府绸更精密，更有丝质感，府绸每英寸大约有100根线，海岛棉每英寸大约140根线-条纹或格子在这种面料上的印花轮廓更清晰，色彩对比更鲜明强烈。特别适合花哨的图案。丝质感可以与丝绸乱真。

6、凸条斜纹织物(Ribbed twill)的斜纹结构特点与丝光斜纹布相同、共典型的微光使普通的素色衬衫更有趣味和特色。

7、细点棉(Pinpoint)是结合了全棉府绸和牛津纺。它刚K纤维棉纺织，与牛津纺一样，经纱染色。

8、人字斜纹织物(Herringbone)与凸条斜纹织物关系紧密，两种面料的纱线纺织都呈斜纹结构-为了达到典刑的人字效果，斜纹的方向改变成间距为5mm。产生Z字型图案。

9、虽然丝绸(Silk)衬衫现在在世界每个地方都买得到，但高质量的丝质衬衫价格还是很贵。许多商务旅行者把他们在英国定制的衬衫拿到香港或中国，请裁缝拷贝成丝质衬衫。

10、起毛棉布(Brushed cotton)是有毛绒表面的棉布，通常制作柔软的休闲衬衫。产品有素色，各种各样的格子，和英格兰格子。在欧洲起毛全棉最为常见和流行的样式是著名的塔特萨尔花格子(Tattersall)，这是一种在浅色衬底上的用两种深色交互排列的方格图案，名称起源于英国的养马师理查·塔特萨尔，他将这种图案最早做在挂在马上的毛毯上。

1l、另一种传统古典的休闲衬衫面料是维也拉法兰绒(Viyella)，它是将温暖的羊毛和舒适的棉混纺成的薄型织物，毛／棉比例为55％／45％，手感柔软轻盈，且具温暖感。维也拉法兰绒通常主要产品是塔特萨尔花格子衬衫。

相关阅读：

Tattersalls
(formerly spelled with an apostrophe) is the main auctioneer of race horses in Ireland and the United Kingdom. It was founded in 1766 by Richard Tattersall (1724–1795), who had been stud groom to the second Duke of Kingston. The first premises occupied were near Hyde Park Corner, in what was then the outskirts of London. Two 'Subscription rooms' were reserved for members of the Jockey Club, and they became the rendezvous for sporting and betting men. Among the famous dispersal sales conducted by 'Old Tatt' were those of the Duke of Kingston's stud in 1774 and of the stud of the Prince of Wales (afterwards George IV) in 1786. The prince often visited Richard Tattersall, and was joint proprietor with him of the Morning Post for several years. He was succeeded by his son, Edmund Tattersall (1758–1810), who extended the business of the firm to France. The third of the dynasty, Richard Tattersall (1785–1859), the eldest of Edmund's three sons, became head of the firm at his father's death. He had his grandfather's ability and tact, and was the intimate of the best sporting men of his time. Another Richard Tattersall (1812–1870), son of the last, then took command of the business. His great-grandfather's 99-year lease having expired, he moved the business to Knightsbridge in 1865. Richard was followed by his cousin, Edmund Tattersall (1816–1898), and he by his eldest son, Edmund Somerville Tattersall (1863–1942).

Tattersall's new premises in Knightsbridge in 1865.
Tattersall's remained a family business into the 20th century. In 1965 it introduced bloodstock auctions at Park Paddocks, Newmarket, and in 1988 it also began holding auctions at Old Fairyhouse in County Meath, Ireland. Tattersalls Ltd (which has dropped the apostrophe from its name) is now based in Newmarket. There is a separate company in Ireland, but it shares some of the same directors. Tattersalls claims to be the leading bloodstock auctioneer in Europe, selling 10,000 horses a year. The horses are still priced in guineas (originally 21 shillings and now one pound and five pence), which is possibly the only contemporary usage of this once common British monetary unit.
Interestingly, this firm (at the time trading under the style of 'Messrs. Tattersall') has the distinction of setting a judicial precedent on the taxability of unclaimed balances (purchase moneys for horses that had been paid to the firm but which had gone unclaimed for substantial periods of time by the firm's clients). In Morley v Tattersall, the English Court of Appeal held that such sums were not to be treated as profits for the purposes of Income Tax.

Viyella
was a blend of wool and cotton first woven in 1893 in England, and soon to be the 'first branded fabric in the world'. [1] It was made of 55 percent merino wool and 45 percent cotton in a twill weave, developed by James and Robert Sissons of William Hollins & Company, spinners and hosiers. The brand name, first registered as a trademark in 1894,[2] and registered in the United States in 1907, soon covered not only the original fabric, to be sold by the yard (piece goods), but also clothing. At first this was made by separate businesses, but it was not long before Hollins started producing their own clothes and offering franchises to manufacturers who would use the Viyella label. Following increasing emphasis on garment manufacture over the years, Viyella is now a fashion brand for clothes and home furnishings made of a variety of fabrics. The original wool/cotton blend is no longer on sale.

举报/Report

我的更多文章

下载客户端阅读体验更佳