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Born to Track -Wire haired Dachshund 为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠

2015-05-02 13:00阅读：

http://blog.sina.cn/dpool/blog/u/2879730840

Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠
2015-05-01 Allen
Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 德国人也把它称为Dackel或Teckel，这一犬种自中世纪以来就很有名。根据“Bracken (狩猎)”记载，有些犬种经过不断的繁殖后就变得特别适于在地下狩猎。挑选对象主要是那些短腿的犬，腊肠犬赢得了承认，作为猎犬中最有用途的、猎犬品种。这一犬种具有卓越的地面上猎捕的能力，在寻找猎物的同时，能够搜索、追踪受伤的猎物。最早于1888年成立的名为“德国Teckel俱乐部”对腊肠犬的饲养作出了描述。
Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠
踪而生标准刚毛腊肠' /> Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠
太湖猎风犬舍这窝刚毛腊肠犬从欧洲优秀犬舍引进，为国内第一窝带胎引进的优秀血统，强烈的狩猎天性渗透在每一只幼犬的血液中，对人格外亲切。对于喜欢猎犬的朋友而言刚毛腊肠犬是可作为家庭宠物饲养的一个理想选择。
Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 美国著名的血迹追踪犬训练师及刚毛腊肠犬繁育者 John Jeanneney 先生同样从欧洲挑选最优秀的个体培育及培训的对象。
Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 他赞扬标准刚毛腊肠犬为最优秀的追踪者，并以“Born-to-Track”（生来追踪）为其冠名。在我和他的交流中，他对于这种狗在血迹追踪启蒙阶段的培训要点做了详细的描述。在此我与各位朋友分享其中一个章节，希望对于给位有所帮助。
Dear
Allen,
It is wonderful to
learn that the wirehaired dachshund has been discovered in China! I would like
to learn more about what dachshunds are legally permitted to do in China. Serbia
is far away as a place to hunt and work your dogs!
I think that my book,
Tracking Dogs for Finding Wounded
Deer, would be useful for you. The third edition will be printed
soon, and we will inform you when it is available. I am attaching the first two
of five chapters on training.
Sincerely
yours,
John
Jeanneney
Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 8 TRAINING THE YOUNG DOG TO TRACK

As soon as your new puppy has adjusted to you and to his new home,you should begin tracking training. It’s in your interest to start him youngwhen his rapidly developing brain will be stimulated as discussed in Chapter 3.

Stages of Training

There is really no way to reduce a training plan to something assimple as a cookbook recipe because individual dogs are so different. However,I do offer a sample training plan at the end of the chapter. This can be modifiedto your needs and situations, just as you would modify your cook book recipe.Different dogs learn and mature psychologically at different rates.
Before you begin anyserious tracking training, you must establish a close relationship with yourdog. Get a feel for his temperament at the young age of 10 or 12 weeks. Howwilling is he to come to you from 20 feet away across the lawn? A certainstubbornness in a tracking dog prospect is not a bad thing, but you must learnhow to deal with this through friendly authority. Your young puppy willcommunicate with you by his tail action and his ear set. Play with him in thehouse and make sure that he is having fun as you begin to train him to track.
The most important thingis to understand the current mental growth level of your own dog. Did he getearly conditioning from the breeder before you brought him? Your aim should beto give him exercises of increasing difficulty that are interesting andchallenging but not beyond his capability at that time. Some puppies are veryearly starters and later have periods of slump and boredom. Be prepared formental paralysis which comes later in adolescence. Other puppies take months todevelop a love for and ability to track. And of course there are some thateventually show that they will never have the makings of a tracker.
The trainer must berealistic, and he should avoid being too rigid in his methods and expectations.Remember that you are developing a working partner, capable of makingindependent decisions about where a wounded deer went. If you attempt to cramthe young dog into a highly structured “command and obey” training regimen, youwill not have the best long-term results. Training for tracking, unlike someother types of training, has to be fun for the dog. You must foster his passionfor later when he will need to track for long, dry miles, to swim cold creeksand plow through falling snow.
Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 1: TrainingwithLiver Drags

Deer liver drags are the simplest and easiest for a very youngpuppy. He can follow an enticing scent trail for ten feet to the piece of rawliver that is a delight to chew on. Working the pup on liver drags, at five to ten weeks of age, can provide thebridge between mental “conditioning” and training. At the beginning the pupwon’t seem to accomplish much, but as explained in Chapter 3, that rapidlygrowing little brain will be stimulated in all the right places.
The time of transition from mentalconditioning to actual training will vary from puppy to puppy. The scent lineis continuous and very attractive to the dog, especially if he has been givenan opportunity to chew on the liver before the drag is made. If the puppy isput down on the line 30 minutes after the drag, there will be plenty of scent.
The length of the first line can vary from 10to 50 feet, depending on the size and maturity of the pup. Encountering hisfirst right angle turn helps the puppy realize that he can check himself whenhe overshoots the corner and runs out of scent. At the age of seven weeks, mostpuppies will not be leash trained. A tracking leash is not really necessary atthe beginning. Use your judgment as to whether it will be a distraction.
When the puppy tracks upto the liver and sinks his teeth into it, praise him enthusiastically. Yourtone of voice is the most important thing. Since the liver is still attached tothe drag cord, have a little tugging match with him. Let him chew off andswallow a few ounces before you pick him up and take him triumphantly back tohis kennel. In the first month of training liver drags can be extended up to200 yards and aged up to four hours.
Once the puppy knows whathe is looking for, his motivation will be high, and this will carry him throughseveral checks at right angle turns. You will gradually be extending the liverdrags to 50 yards or more as you see that he is gaining the attention span tohandle this.
When you sense that it isappropriate, introduce the tracking leash of plastic clothes line or otherlight, low-friction material. Yard training to walk on a leash should haveprogressed far enough by this time so that the tracking leash will not be adistraction. The tracking leash will actually become a line of communication.If the pup overshoots a right angle or drifts off the line, a gentle twitch onthe leash and an “Is that right?” in a questioning tone will ease him back intothe task at hand.
During the liver dragphase, two sessions a week is fine and one is not a disaster, particularly ifthe weather is uncooperative. Avoid high heat and high winds.

Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 2: Training with Artificial Blood Trails

There does not have to be an abrupt change-over from liver dragsto blood trails created with a dabber or squeeze bottle. Blend one phase oftraining into the next. There are differences that should be understood. A freshblood trail, with wet drops of blood still glistening, does not work verywell. Pups stop to lick it, and theyforget about moving ahead to the prize at the end. It works best to wait untilthe blood has dried, even though it is less attractive than a liver drag of the same age. Wait untilthe blood is dry. This will range from30 minutes to an hour.
The blood line does notoffer the easy linear continuity of the liver drag. The dog must “reach” fromone drop or dab of blood to the next. When the blood is to be found atintervals of a foot, this is not a problem. When the distance between drops ordabs is extended to a pace or a yard, the puppy has something new to learn. Hewill begin finding and interpreting scent as it will occur when he begins trackingthe real thing.
Old dried blood is not asexciting to a puppy as a fresher liver drag, but there are advantages. It ismore realistic, in that it approaches the scent line left by a wounded deer. Italso lasts a long time. A drop of blood continues to give off microscopic scentparticles for many hours. A hunter knows that a fox or coon track four hoursold is an old track. In contrast a four hour blood trail is not at all old fora dog’s nose. When you are working with a four-month-old pup, you should nothesitate to work him on a track that has aged overnight. You can begin to askthe puppy to track a line that obliges him to really concentrate. When you askyour puppy to work hard, do not ask him to work for too long or too far. Thelimiting factor at this age is not his nose; it is the processing power andattention span of his still-growing brain.
When you begin workingblood lines, you should also have been conditioning him to be enthusiasticabout the various scents of a deer: interdigital and tarsal gland scents aswell as the smell of a deer skin. It’s great if this has already occurred inthe whelping box. At the end of the line place a deer tail or some other deerpart. I find that a piece of thawed-out deer skin, hair and all, works best. Lethim smell it, chew it and shake it, if he wishes. Dachshunds and Jagdterriers are more enthusiastic about thisplay than Labs and versatile pointing dogs. For the former a piece of skin ismore fun than a deer leg.
Enhancing the prize atthe end of the line with treats such as pieces of raw deer heart, makes thetracking experience even more memorable for the puppy. Other sorts of meat willwork, but raw venison parts relate directly to the tracking work. If you workyour dog on an empty stomach, he will be especially eager to track on the nextexercise.

3: Training in the Woods

Usually your training has begun on lawns and nearby fields wherethe cover is not too heavy. As you and your dog progress, the limitations ofthis environment become evident. On a breezy day the scent is spread over manyfeet. You also realize that the dog remembers where the skin was placed lastweek. Dogs have a great memory for where things are or have been located. Hemay even be able to smell the old blood line. You need fresh ground and freshadventures.
There is also the problem of marking the line.With surveyors’ flags on theground, the pup quickly learns torecognize that they mark the line. You want to train your dog to use his nose,not his eyes. Traveling to forests and woodlots makes it easier to mark thelonger, more complicated blood trails you are now using. Wooden clothes pins, with six inches ofsurveyor's tape attached, can be clipped to branches at eye level.
In the woods wind will no longer be a problem,and now you will be training in the same types of places where you willactually be tracking when the hunting season comes. There will be the samedistracting fresh scents of deer and turkeys. The distraction problem will getworse instead of better for several months, but you and your dog must startdealing with this, the greatest challenge that you will encounter.
Lay blood trails throughbedding areas. If there is a field where deer come out to feed in lateafternoon, lay your marked line though the trees along the perimeter. When youcome to work the line at dusk the deer will leave the field producing the hotscent lines that will distract your dog as he follows the blood trail. You willlearn how to read your dog as he reacts to the hot scent. Your dog will learnto get back on the old cold line. It may take a “Is that right? It may take astern “No!”. Do not resort to an e-collar.
Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠
Materials for Laying Training Lines

The training procedures that we have just discussed requireadvanced planning. You will need deer blood and other deer parts for preparingthe training lines. In addition you will need equipment, a leash and soforth suitable for the age and size ofthe dog you will be working with.
In most parts of North America it is not difficultto collect deer blood if you plan ahead. When deer hunting, carry severalone-gallon Ziploc Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 bags and a half-pint plastic margarine tub. Ask your huntingfriends to do the same. When a deer is shot, use the plastic tub to scoop theblood from the chest cavity into one of the gallon Ziploc Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 bags, seal it, andfor insurance place the whole thing in the second bag. When a quart or so ofblood leaks out of a plastic bag into your hunting coat, it does make a mess.Once back home, I like to pour the blood from the Ziploc Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 bag into half-pintmargarine tubs for freezing. On the cover of each tub I use an indeliblelaundry marker pen to date the blood and list its source. The tubs can bethawed-out individually and provide just the right amount of blood for a test ortraining line. If the blood is going to be applied on the line with a squeezebottle, then it should be strained before it is frozen.
When a deer is beingfield dressed, it is usually possible to collect blood and the heart and liveras well. Most hunters leave these organs in the woods, and if you see that thisis their intention, you should pop them into another Ziploc Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 for futuretraining sessions. As we have alreadydiscussed deer liver drags are very useful in motivating a puppy to follow hisnose to a tasty chew on deer. This is a good way to get started. However, Ifyou live in an area where liver flukes are a problem in deer, skip the liverpart.
In general liver should not be fed in largequantities to dogs for health reasons, use it as a small, tasty reward. Dogsusually prefer deer heart to deer liver, but the heart does not leave as enduring a scent line when dragged; heart ismore useful as a treat once you begin working on blood lines.
It is a good idea toslice the liver and heart into smaller pieces before you freeze it. But makesure that
the pieces are big enoughso that your dog can't wolf the who thing down at once. Place the pieces inseparate plastic bags so that you can thaw out only what you need. Yourobjective is to give the pup a tasty chew. You must have something that smellsof deer to put at the end of the line. A deer leg can be used, but I prefer apiece of thawed out deer skin that your dog can grab and shake.

For laying out a bloodline there are several different procedures. The dabbing and flicking method oflaying a track requires a one-inch cube of cellulose sponge lashed to the endfork of a three-foot wand from a green, whippy branch. This is best forflicking, which gives you a continuous line of very fine droplets, whichentices the pup to follow.
You can also attach a twoinch square of sponge to one end of a heavier stick with a large headed screwand a washer. This works best for dabbing blood at each stride. The advantageof the sponge on a stick method is that you can use unstrained blood, which youcarry in a small plastic bucket in one hand while you hold the stick in theother. This avoids wasting any of your tracking blood, which may be in shortsupply. If you screen out coagulatedblood and food particles that would clog the fine spout of a squeeze bottle,then you end up throwing away a lot of gunk that would be perfectly good forlaying a track. Of course you can avoid the whole problem by buying a $25blender especially for the purpose.
In the sponge-on-a-stickmethod you re-dip the sponge every ten dabs of so, or whenever the sponge getsdry. Normally, you are dabbing at every stride, but you may want to flick ordab the blood at closer intervals in early training.
I find the squeeze bottlemethod faster and more efficient once the blood has been strained or broken upin the blender. With the bottle you canreadily put up markers and place blood without setting down your equipment ateach marking stop.
Sometimes trainers do nothave access to deer blood that has been collected during the hunting season.There are alternatives. Deer are killed on highways all year round, and thesedeer can be a source of blood and a training hide, provided that there has beenno decay. Highway departments are generally staffed by serious deer hunters,who will appreciate what you are doing and will give you a call when they pickup a suitable deer. Be sure to touch base with the local conservation officer.There are usually major legal complications if you are found in possession ofan untagged deer, or deer parts, without official authorization.
In some cases cattleblood may be used as an alternative to deer blood, but this could lead to othercomplications We have had some unsatisfactory experiences with cattle blood froma small slaughterhouse in New York State.There were several problems. First, since cattle blood can transmit disease theU.S. Department of Agriculture required considerable paper work authorizing itsuse. The federal veterinarian attending at this slaughterhouse was very patientand co-operative, but it is possible that the veterinarians in a larger, busierestablishment would have no time for this sort of foolishness.
Another problem was thatthe gallon of cow blood, which we drew off, coagulated into jelly almostimmediately. Heparin, which is expensive, and potassium citrate, which ischeap, are both very effective to keep blood liquid and usable for laying outtraining lines. Potassium citrate can be purchased in large pharmacies andchemical supply houses without special permit or prescription. It seemsodorless to humans, and dogs are certainly not repelled by it. You can alsorely on a blender, but this is extra work.
Dogs will track cattleblood, but clearly they do not find it as appealing as deer blood. Fordachshunds, beagles and Jagdterriers deer blood does produce the greatestanimation and desire to follow at the beginning. Curs, Labs and pointing breedstend to accept cattle blood better than the scent hounds.
Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 Tracking Leashes and Collars for Puppies

Selecting a trackingleash for a young, seven-week-old puppy is not complicated, but it must beadapted to the pups age and size. tracking leash is necessary. At the very beginningyou probably will not lead a tracking leash at all. You can walk along with thepup, encouraging him as he tracks a very easy, fresh line.. After two or threeweeks of this, and after the puppy has some familiarity with an ordinarywalking leash, the tracking leash should be introduced. A light tracking leashof ten or fifteen feet is a good idea for early training, even if the adult dogis going to be worked in a state where it is legal to let the dog work off leadwhen tracking wounded deer. The first tracking leash should be as light andfriction-free as possible. For small breeds like dachshunds fifteen feet ofplastic clothesline is a wonderful solution. The puppy will barely notice it inhis enthusiasm to follow the blood. For pups of the larger breeds you may wantto use a heavier material; new, braided cotton clothesline has the stiffnessthat will help prevent tangles. At any rate, your puppy, whatever his weightand strength, should begin working with a tracking leash shorter and lighterthan what would be appropriate for that dog as an adult.
For all dogs avoid thevery limp nylon called parachute cord. This will tangle and hang up at everyopportunity and distract your dog from tracking. We will have much more to sayabout leashes in the chapter on equipment.

At the very beginningwith a young puppy you will not probably need a tracking leash at all. But asthe pups gets bigger and faster a leash and collar give the handler much morecontrol. If the pup overshoots a turn and clearly is not going to correcthimself, it is much easier to stop him on the lead, let him swing in an arc,and then let him go forward, with encouragement, when he is crosses andrecognizes the scent line. As much as possible, let the puppy solve his problemfor himself. That’s what he will have todo when tracking wounded game. If needed, guidance by slight tugs on the leash is preferable to actuallypicking up the puppy and carrying him back to the point of loss.
This early guidance isbetter done with a collar than a harness. The harness will work, but since theleash attachment is roughly at the middle of the dog, “steering” is moredifficult than when the leash is attached to the front end of the dog at acollar. You do not need a special tracking collar until the puppy is nearinghis adult size and the collar becomes a special cue to get serious.
Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠 Born <wbr>to <wbr>Track <wbr>-Wire <wbr>haired <wbr>Dachshund <wbr>为追踪而生标准刚毛腊肠



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