维京人的时尚之风——颜色、毛皮、丝绸
2015-06-09 16:47阅读：
来源：Science
Nordic
作者：Johan Skov Andersen
时间：2015年5月6日
译者：Sai
校对：铃铛
编辑：曲清
链接：
http://sciencenordic.com/fashionable-vikings-loved-colours-fur-and-silk
维京人是高明的战士、商人、探险者，同时他们可能也有着时尚的一面。
关键字：考古；历史；维京时期；维京人
这一年是公元873年，Frida正在决定穿什么。她的红裙子终于做好了，用刚打磨好的贝壳状胸针固定在肩上。这是维京流行的最新裙装剪裁。
当然，我们不知道真实情节究竟是如何发生的。尽管如此，Frida的大红裙子和相配搭的胸针在当时非常受维京女性欢迎。实际上，在维京时期，红色和蓝色属于最流行的颜色。
但维京人真的有时尚概念吗？
“当然，
”
哥本哈根国家博物馆（National Museum in
Copenhagen）纺织物研究中心（Centre for Textile
Research）研究员Ulla
Mannering肯定地说道。
她解释道，维京时期的所谓时尚与现代社会频繁更迭的“时尚”并不相同，但从考古材料中我们可以看到当时存在某种“时尚”形式。
“维京人存在某些潮流和趋势，以现代的观点来看，可以称之为时尚。但维京时尚变化很慢。虽然他们不会抛弃所有旧衣物，但随着时间的推进，确实涌现了新的颜色、装饰和款式。”Mannering说道。
今年年初，一个展示维京时尚的时装秀在哥本哈根大学（University of
Copenhagen
）举办，时装秀上展示了研究者对维京时期服饰的想象和复原，组图展示了时装展览上的部分展品。
富人的专属衣料
Mannering解释道，有关维京时尚的知识完全来自维京富人的墓葬，而对维京穷人的穿着我们知之甚少。
“我们认为他们的时尚其实是上层社会地位的象征。尽管普通维京人的服饰没有那么奢华也没有金银、毛皮、丝绸装饰，但是总体而言在风格上与上层社会大体相似。上层社会的风格很可能对底层人民的服饰影响深远。”Mannering说道。
如果条件允许，维京人并不怕穿造价昂贵的奢华服饰。但是普通维京人都穿什么呢？
羊毛、亚麻、绳编
Ulla Mannering认为维京男性和女性的服饰不一样。
典型的女性装束包括亚麻内衣和长至脚面的羊毛连衣裙或半裙。连衣裙通常有肩带，肩带在胸前用贝壳状的胸针固定（见图）。研究者还发现有些裙子带袖。外套一般是斗篷，系在胸前，通常还会戴一顶小帽子或头巾。
男性的典型装束则是亚麻的束腰上衣，外罩羊毛的束腰大衣。他们的下半身可能穿着短/长裤，有时是及膝马裤——就像迪斯尼动画中阿拉丁的形象。肩上穿着披肩或夹克，头上再戴上帽子。
维京人也喜欢多彩的颜色。“维京人青睐带有花样和饰带的鲜艳服饰。红色和蓝色在整个维京时代都受到欢迎，”Mannering说道。
维京时装秀
“考古学家时常能发现一些维京时代的纺织布片和皮革。以此为基础，我们能知道那个时候面料和技术的一些信息。虽然我们并不能确切知道当时维京人的服饰究竟是怎样，但是尝试复原维京服饰也是很有趣的。”Mannering说道。
对她而言，全世界的维京狂热者展示维京时期的服饰非常有意思。
“目前，这些服饰是我们最好的尝试。我们永远也不可能复原出能让一个真正维京人认同的维京服饰，但是也不应因此惧怕想象和尝试，”她说，“我们还在不断学习维京人的服饰究竟是怎样的。”
维京女性套装：以最流行的红色布料制作的裙子，以贝壳状胸针固定。这个款式在维京时代中期已不再流行。（Johan
Skov Andersen摄）
一件颜色鲜艳的长裙，搭配合适的贝壳状胸针。
维京年轻男性的装束。在那时，鞋子一般由皮革制成。
时装秀上颜色最鲜艳的就是这件橘色束腰长袍，配搭完整。
一套完整的女性装束：亚麻的内衬或罩衫，贝壳状胸针固定的吊带裙，还有头巾。
著名的维京女战士可能的装束。
年轻的“维京人”骄傲地展示他浅蓝色袍子里面穿的是什么：裤腿和“内裤”相连。
基督教传进维京后的女性装束。基督徒把长袖设计传给了维京人。
原文：
The Vikings were skilled warriors, traders, and explorers, but
a more fashionable side might also have existed.
Keywords: archaeology; history,
Viking Age,
vikings
The year is 873 and Frida is deciding what to wear. Her new
red dress is finally ready, as are her freshly polished
shell-shaped brooches designed to hold it in place at her
shoulders. The dress is the newest cut in Viking
fashion.
Of course, we don’t know exactly how such a scenario played
out. Nevertheless, to a Viking woman, Frida’s dress in vibrant red
with matching brooches could have been hugely popular. In fact, red
and blue were among the most popular colours in the Viking
Age.
But did the Vikings really have fashion on the
mind?
'Yes,' says Ulla Mannering from the Centre for Textile
Research at the National Museum in Copenhagen.
Fashion in Viking times was different from how we perceive it
today, where the wardrobe changes from year to year, she explains,
but we can see a form of 'fashion' from the archaeological finds
from that time.
'The Vikings had trends and tendencies that we today might
call fashion. Viking fashion changes slowly through time. It does
not mean that they threw out all their old clothes, but we do see
new colours, decorations, or costume shapes materialise over time,
'said Mannering.
In the gallery above you can see examples of how the
researchers envision Viking fashions, presented on a catwalk show
at the University of Copenhagen earlier this year.
Exclusive materials reserved for the rich
Our knowledge of Viking fashion comes entirely from the tombs
of rich Vikings and tells us little about how poorer people in
society would have dressed, explains Mannering.
'What we call fashion are their symbols of high status.
Overall, it appears that the ordinary Vikings would have been
dressed in something similar, though less luxurious and without the
gold, silver, fur, and silk. But the elements would have been
roughly the same. Styles of high-status outfits probably greatly
influenced styles of garments made further down the social
hierarchy,' says Mannering.
The Vikings, who had the means to do so, were therefore not
afraid to wear extravagant clothes, made with expensive materials.
But what do we know about Viking clothes in general?
Wool, linen, and layers
Ulla Mannering explains that in Viking times there were
differences between how men and women dressed.
A typical costume for a woman consisted of a linen
undergarment, covered by a long woollen dress or skirt down to the
feet. Dresses often had straps and were held in place across the
chest with shell-shaped brooches (see gallery). Researchers have
also discovered that some dresses had fitted sleeves. Outerwear was
usually a cloak, closed at the front of the chest, typically worn
with a small hat or a headscarf.
The men's attire on the other hand typically consisted of a
linen tunic, worn underneath another tunic made of
wool.
On the bottom half they wore either short or long trousers,
or sometimes knee length pantaloons - imagine Disney's Aladdin. A
cape or a jacket fixed in place at the shoulder and a hat completed
the look.
Vikings also loved colours.
'The Vikings wore colourful clothing with patterns and
stitched bands. Red and blue were especially popular throughout the
Viking Age, 'says Mannering.
A Viking catwalk
In February this year, people gathered for a seminar on
Viking clothes at the Saxo Institute at the University of
Copenhagen. The last item on the day’s agenda was a Viking catwalk
show.
'From time to time archaeologists find pieces of old textiles
and leather patches from the Viking era. It can give us an idea of
the types of fabrics and techniques once used. It doesn’t tell us
much about what Viking clothes actually looked like, but it's fun
to see people who can craft, trying to reproduce the clothing from
Viking times,' said Mannering.
For her it was mainly just fun to hear the opinions of Viking
enthusiasts from around the world display how the Vikings may have
dressed.
'At present, these outfits are our best bet. We're never
going to be able to reconstruct the Viking clothes to a level that
an actual Viking would recognize, but we should not be afraid to be
imaginative and give it a go,' she says. 'We are constantly
learning more about Viking clothes and what they would have looked
like.'
